Designers: Isobel Cook , BA Menswear Graduate, in Collaboration with Textile Designer Giverney-Grace Volrath; both London College of Fashion.
Collection: Self
This collection really stood out for me. Fearless, powerful and dynamic; whether it was the pure magnitude of the pieces, the well-executed construction, or my understanding of the patience it must have taken to sew each individual wooden piece on. – Whatever it was, I liked what I saw.
Inspired by Japanese culture and traditions, the A/W 2016 Collection “tells the story of a lone man who evolves into a warrior. He becomes bigger and more extravagant as time goes on. It’s an evolution..”. This is shown by a progression in the various looks; “The start of the collection is relatively simple and wearable but as the collection continues the silhouettes get larger and more detailed with appliques.” (When she says larger, she means it; I am immediately struck by the sheer volume of the final two looks; reminiscent of traditional Japanese Sumo wrestler attire).
A reserved colour palette consisting of forest, olive greens and mustard yellow; the earthy tones complimented the wooden textiles perfectly. With such a refined colour scheme, I am drawn towards the beautiful and intricate wooden appliques. The appliques- engraved with geometric shapes and inspired by Japanese Architecture- were designed and made by Textile designer Giverney-Grace Volrath. Luxurious materials are used; from 100% Wool to Cotton Sateens and Silk Crepes; all of which have contrasting textural qualities that complement each other.
So we have more than just a collection of Kimonos; Cook has taken her travels, her experiences in Japan and fashioned a tale of change through time. – One man’s journey and development. I am intrigued with her concept and captivated by how she’s translated this idea into such a bold collection of garments.
Two very talented individuals and one successful collaboration; I look forward to seeing what’s next for these designers.
Photography by Isobel Cook
Model: Karjai Khyme Lisbie