Designer Feature: Agatha Smith

Agatha Smith, BA Menswear Graduate, London College of Fashion.

What a fascinating, provocative concept; my first thought as Smith described her collection. A concept so clever and original, when presented with the collection I would never have guessed it myself. It is the idea of “reincarnating our identities” through the borrowed clothes we wear. – Borrowed ex-lover’s clothes to be precise. Some of us will collect a whole variety of clothing left by ex-lovers; it is what we do with these pieces that Smith builds on. “..Transforming, borrowing, personas of individuals we once knew, controlling the self through manipulation and maintenance”. It is the manipulation and transformation that is so evident in Smith’s collection.

One critical element of construction was the use of drawstrings to allow for adjustments; “a one size fits all collection, designed to be thrown on the morning after the night before and manipulated to see fit.” A collection of adjustable pieces; well-made and practical. I particularly like the simplicity of the “genderless” silhouettes; which are “Fluid, organic and versatile..”– All pieces are designed to fit both genders and all body shapes; the term androgynous springs to mind. Smith plays one off against the other by adding components of both; with feminine grosgrain edges to contrast the more masculine deep faced hems. Attention to detail; check.

Minimalist materials are used; heavy weight denim, raw silk, jersey and various waterproofs; which all compliment the neutral colour scheme.

An innovative, thought-provoking collection with huge emphasis put on the adaptability of each garment. For some the subject of ex-lovers is a fragile one but Smith puts a remarkable spin on the topic creating an intimate and unconventional array of garments.

A thoroughly unique and personal collection, this will no doubt be one of many from this young, distinctive and captivating designer.

“Through collection, obtainment and the excessive desire to own, we have bridged ‘the gap between biology and socially constructed gender roles” Glass (2014)